Instruction/Kit

A Little Nonsense

6/16/2020

The Owl & the Pussycat
Monthly Challenge – June 2020
By Natalie Parish - Bag End Studio - Powertex QLD
Australian Powertex Design Team

The first verse of Edward Lear’s Nonsense Poem was the inspiration for this month’s challenge. Edward Lear was also a wonderful painter. Perhaps that is why he could conjure up such beautiful imagery and that is what I attempted to pay homage to with this months lovely kit.

The Owl and the Pussy-cat went to sea
   In a beautiful pea-green boat,
They took some honey, and plenty of money,
   Wrapped up in a five-pound note.
The Owl looked up to the stars above,
   And sang to a small guitar,
"O lovely Pussy! O Pussy, my love,
    What a beautiful Pussy you are,
         You are,
         You are!
What a beautiful Pussy you are!"

Materials:

Owl & the Pussycat MDF Cut Outs, Designer Chipboard Mats,
Designer Flower Stencil
Powertex Universal Medium. Colour of your choice. I used black Stone Art
Easy Coat Varnish - Glossy
Powercolours of your choice to embellish your work. I used titanium white, lilac and Phthalo Green
Bister Blue
Natural Paper Decoration
Easy Structure
Doll Eyes
Modge Podge

Materials Optional:

Styrofoam Circle
Boom Gel – colours of your choice. I used Pearlescent – white, charcoal, mauve and Metallic Silver.
Triangle hooks

From your useful box:

Cardboard cut into a sail shape
Masking Tape and waste photocopying paper.
Chopsticks
String
Fake money, medal anything medallion shape
Wooden canvas stretchers.
Styrofoam

Equipment:

Plastic covered workspace
Mixing Bowls
Paint brushes (one for Powertex and one or two for pigment colours)
Lids for Palette (or alfoil).
Palette Knife, skewers, ﬂat spatula,
Clay modelling tool
Washing up Container for cleaning
Gloves, Chux Cloth, Paper towel
Gladwrap (to wrap Stone Art clay and to cover opened Powertex bottles)
Air-tight container to store clay.

Step 1: Design Layout

Push or knife out your pieces and play with positioning them.
After surfing the internet, I noted that many of the images positioned the boat against a moon, with the pussycat rowing and the owl playing a guitar like instrument. I wanted to capture a night sky or moon for the owl and the pussycat. I wanted them to be sailing so I played with the idea of creating a sail out of cardboard and natural paper decoration.
I toyed with the idea of using a large Styrofoam Circle as my ‘canvas’ backdrop.
Collect the necessary Powertex products and equipment and set up your plastic covered workspace.
Note - During the process, I couldn't make up my mind about the moon background so I also created my artwork to be a stand alone piece and have given you the option do either or both.

Step 2: Make Stone Art

In a bowl with a medium amount of Black Powertex Universal Medium (approx. 1 cup), add Stone Art (approx. 1 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.

Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to ‘flour’ the ball. Knead well until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking. (Apologies, I used most of my stone art clay before the photograph).
Keep the clay ball wrapped in glad wrap and in a sealed airtight container to prevent hardening until use.

Step 3: Join Boat Together & Seal MDF Boards

Apologies I forgot to photograph the boat and mast pole with masking tape, which I used extensively knowing I was going to cover it later with Powertex and stencilling.
Using a paint brush, seal both the back and fronts of all the MDF Boards (including the boat and the mast pole) – note I did not seal the chipboards as I knew I wanted to bend them while they were wet to give the flowers more dimension.

Step 4: Create the Sail

Tease your natural paper decoration apart and layout on your cardboard sail in preparation. You can paint a little bit of water on the natural paper decoration in the stiffer parts to help tease apart.
Paint the MDF pole (first) and then the cardboard sail with black Powertex.
While wet attach the sail to the MDF pole.
Using a paint brush, black Powertex the back of the natural paper decoration and cover the cardboard sail entirely before painting the front.
A skewer can be used to lift and play with the fibres.

Step 5: Stencil Boat

Load a palette knife with a small amount of easy structure paste and scrap over your stencils. Easy structure a high quality fast drying paste that holds its form. Having said that if you are a little impatient like myself between drying times you can fiddle with the paste using a skewer. However, many imperfections will be masked in future layers (or purposely masked if they become a distraction to you).

I wanted to play with my pea green boat idea, so I sprayed the stencils with Blue Bister (which when mixed with water is actually green). I loved it.

Step 6: Attach Styrofoam backing

Note – I decided to attach a Styrofoam back towards the end of my work when I decided my piece could be stand alone. However, I thought I would mention this step earlier as it would be easier to do before stencilling, attaching chipboard flowers and embellishing with powercolours.
Use the MDF Boat to trace out your Styrofoam backing.
Paint one side of the Styrofoam in Black Powertex and the back of the MDF boat and stick together. Let dry.
Optional – a sausage of stone art clay around the edges of the Styrofoam and the MDF boat and spread using a modelling tool to improve attachment.
We do sell Styrofoam but I used salvaged Styrofoam here.

Step 7: Attach flowers

I sealed the chipboard flowers with black Powertex and manipulated the petals whilst wet. I positioned the flowers into place using a small ball of stone art on the back.
Apologies, in my desire to try out the Lilac and Phthalo green colours to see if they would match, I forgot to take a photo of the process.

Step 8: Embellish the boat & Sail with Colour

Using the dry brush technique, highlight your textures in colours of your choice. I used Phthalo green and a touch of lilac both mixed with Titanium White to brighten the tones.
Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Varnish into a lid/palette/alfoil
Palette out the colour pigments of your choice. I used the matt powercolour Phthalo Green and Lilac blended with White Titanium to brighten the colours.
With a very dry brush take up a small amount of the Easy Coat Varnish into the brush tips and criss-cross your brush onto the palette to load the varnish into your brush.
Pick up a small amount of colour pigment and criss-cross your brush with it into the palette to create a paint and apply remembering it is always easier to build colour than remove it.

Step 9: Sculpture Owl

The kit includes some wooden eye shapes, however, I wanted to take the use of stone art to a sculpting level. I think it took me a week to muster the courage to begin. Or was it two?
I started sculpting the faces first using the MDF as a guide and adding doll eyes.
For the body, I rolled out the stone art approximately 50mm thick (just enough to be able to leave feather impressions using a simple clay modelling tool.
Use the chipboard feather components from the kit to create tailfeathers and owl arms (In my original layout I used plaster hands in my layout but changed my mind)
Using a paint brush, seal the chipboards with Powertex and while wet they can be gently bent and manipulated and can be positioned on your piece using stone art.
As I wanted the hands to hold the guitar, I attached a small bit of the wing shape to the back of the body. I added clay lugs to the back of the guitar and positioned it onto the body. Then I gently bent the wing shapes into position.
If components crack or break slightly you can mend with a bit of stone art or squeeze together, remembering that sometimes not being perfect can lead to wonderful textures in the final colouring stage.

Step 10: Sculpture Pussycat

I followed a similar process with Pussy cat and started sculpting the face first using the MDF as a guide and adding animal eyes.
Similarly, for the body, I rolled out the stone art approximately 50mm thick (just enough to be able to leave fur impressions and finger pressed it onto the Cat MDF Shapes (body, arms and leg) and the oar shape.
Using a clay modelling tool, I created fur like impressions.
Note on the MDF oar, I added a bit Powertex dipped string for added texture.
I then added stone art to back of the arms and legs and pressed them into position holding the oar.

Step 11: Embellish the Owl and the Pussycat

Use the dry brush technique as outlined in Step 8 to embellish your pieces using the powercolours of your choice. (or if you prefer a metallic look Colourtrix). I used Orange, Lilac and Phthalo Green blended with Titanium white brighten the tones

Step 12: Attach the Owl, Pussycat & Sail Mast

The beauty of the Styrofoam backing is that you can push your attachment pieces right into it. Here I used chopsticks painted with black Powertex and inserted into the Styrofoam whilst wet.
To position the Owl and the Pussycat, use masking tape, but once happy, paint both the inside and outside of the masking tape with black Powertex.
Roll out rectangles of stoneart and attach to the back of the MDF animals over the chopstick to secure and let dry.

Step 13: Attach Sail – solve Top Heavy?

To attach mast, push into the Styrofoam, remove and fill the hole with a bit of black Powertex and re-insert.
You may require to problem solve if your piece becomes top heavy and if you are opting for a stand-alone piece. I used the wooden pieces that come with canvas’ to stretch it. Firstly, I inserted one behind the mast and several along the base of the ship. All pieces were painted with black Powertex and a bit of stone art to assist with attachment.

Optional – I attached the MDF moon to the top of the sail using stone art

Step 14: Optional – Some Honey and Plenty of Money

Note – happily use any suitable found objects from your useful box.
Create a pot with masking tape, alfoil and stone art clay. I recycled a small medicine cup used for pouring acrylics and the cork from a whisky bottle. Embellish with colours.
Print out a 5-pound note and modpodge for flexibility, sprayed with bister for an aged appearance.. Create a pouch and insert any fake discs or medals. I painted these with Powertex, and embellished first and attach with stone art onto the boat.

Step 15: Optional – Boom Gel Moon Background

I had mixed reviews from colleagues regarding the boom gel background. Half loved it Half preferred the stand-alone version. I am providing options to create either version
Seal your styrofoam circle with Black Powertex. I did two coats but left the top one a bit thick. I think I should have done three coats and left to dry completely for a better finish.
Using Boom Gel Stain colours of your choice to acrylic pour. I chose Pearlescent White, Pearlescent Charcoal, Pearlescent Mauve and Silver and cell booster between layers.
Once dry use Boom Gel Sealer.
Attach Triangle hooks on the back of the disc using stone art and using the same technique in all my blogs.
To attach boat permanently to the moon – paint the styrofoam boat base with black Powertex and position on the moon. Once dry you can seal the cedges with stone art and create a stronger attachment.

Finished Congratulations!
I hope you are over the moon with your artwork.
Hang on, am I getting my old rhymes mixed up?
Join me next time or Christmas in July!!!!!

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Magnificent Luciferin Machine by Natalie Parish from Bag End Studio

5/17/2020

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Inspired by an Italian trip to a Leonardo Da Vinci Invention Museum I wanted to create a Mythical Steampunk Machine. Imagine my delight when I found Leonardo Napkins at Tamara’s Paper Napkins on Etsy! I also wanted to create a Sci-Fi vibe, so I did a bit research on fireflies. Firstly, I discovered Fireflies are not really flies but beetles from the Order Coleoptera. The light is from the compound Luciferin which is the most efficient light in the world and used in a growing field of medical research as well as gene manipulation in plants so they light up in our homes potentially reducing the consumption of fossil fuel based lighting. Now my imagination was set alight and a whole story lit up in my head of world where humans could harness that light and energy. Would it be fabulous world – maybe not?
Human Impact Report Lampyridae - (lightning-beetles).
Giant light emitting beetles from the Lampyridae family produce the most efficient form of light. Since mechanization and the ability to intensify oxygen concentrations, we harness beetles as a renewable source of light and energy including luciferase plant gene manipulation for creating indoor plants that service our internal décor needs. Additionally, luciferin extraction is now essential for gene technology, medical research, food safety, and forensic testing. As such the living Magnificent Luciferin Machines are now an important source of employment accounting for 80% of work in Machine Pasture Counties.
The expansion of human territories has caused habitat destruction for these necessary creatures and as we are still unable to force reproduction we rely on a natural source for capture and herding. Environmental Protection Zones have become a necessary norm. Visitors will be allowed to use the zones for recreational purposes within guided areas as the carnivorous larvae of these beetles are dangerous to humans. Therefore, the Luciferin machine industry by its very use of these creatures is protecting this species and large tracts of environmental parks for future generations to come.

Materials:

MDF Firefly & Steampunk Pieces & Cog Chipboard Mats, (I kept stencils for another project)
Box of Cogs from Bag End Studio Store - optional
Bulbs & Gauges (Dusty Attic) from Bag End Studio Store - optional.
Little People from Bag End Studio Store - optional
Powertex Universal Medium-colours of your choice. I used Terracotta, Yellow Ochre, Bronze/Black PTX
Stone Art – mixed with Terracotta and Bronze
Easy Coat Varnish - Glossy
Powercolours of your choice to embellish your work. I used titanium white, orange, and brown
Colourtrix colours of your choice to highlight powercolours. I used bronze, clear, and rich gold
Medium Balls
Triangle Hooks for hanging.

From your useful box:

Alfoil and Masking Tape
Masking Tape, waste photocopying paper, alfoil for form building
Wire or string
Skewers, toothpicks to fit through cog pieces
Masking Tape
Tonic Plastic Bottle – requires emptying first through the mixing with Gin and Lime followed by human consumption.

Equipment:

Plastic covered workspace and mixing bowls
Paint brushes (one for Powertex and one or two for pigment colours)
Lids for Palette (or alfoil).
Palette Knife, ﬂat spatula
Craft knife
Clay modelling tool
Washing up Container for cleaning
Gloves, Chux Cloth, Paper towel
Gladwrap (to wrap Stone Art clay and to cover opened Powertex bottles)
Air-tight container to store clay.

Step 1: Design Layout

Surf the internet or Pinterest for inspiration.
Push or knife out your pieces and play with positioning them.
I created a 3D mock-up of my beetle.
I attached it to a bottle which later would be housing for the fairy lights. I cut a small rectangle in the masking tape area to fit a battery pack. Make sure that the pack can be inserted and removed. Put masking tape over the sharp cut edges.
Note: the masking tape area at the small end of the plastic bottle will later be hidden by stone art.
I also included a temporary small container to hold the tail upright and a masking tape strap across the wings to hold the design in place.
Note: In hindsight, I could have sealed the MDF Boards with Terracotta PTX before playing with the layout.

Step 2: Make Stone Art

In a bowl with a medium amount of Terracotta Powertex Universal Medium (approx. 1/2 cup), add Stone Art (approx. 1/2 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.

Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to ‘flour’ the ball. Knead well until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking.
Keep the clay ball wrapped in glad wrap and in a sealed airtight container to prevent hardening until use.

Step 3: Making Compound Eyes

Make a flat based half sphere out of crumpled paper and masking tape.
Paint the balls with black Powertex and while wet dip the heads into the small balls. Let dry.
Re-paint the eyes with Black PTX.
Repeat the process if you desire more texture.
Finish with Dark Silver Colourtrix

Step 4: Seal & Colour Kit Pieces

Paint/Seal MDF, and chipboard steampunk pieces with terracotta PTX
I used extra pieces (Box of Cogs from Bag End Studio Store) Let dry.
Dry brush the kit steampunk pieces with easy coat glossy and powercolour. I used a mixture of orange, titanium white and dark brown powercolours.

Step 5: Make Beetle Body & Head

Make a flat oblong base and flat semi -circular shape out of crumpled paper and masking tape.
I created a crease in the middle of the back of my body to house the gears.
Paint and seal with Terracotta Powertex. Let dry.
Use a sausage shape of stone art clay around the base of your beetle body to attach it to your firefly body.
Similarly use a sausage of clay to attach each side of the MDF body to the bottle.
Use a stone art clay attach an MDF Circles and Clock to create a head. Spread the clay out around the head piece and texturize with one end of a skewer.
Seal all the MDF firefly pieces with Terracotta PTX if you have not done so.
Paint inside the bottle where you can see the masking tape on the inside making sure you keep the bottom end clear.

Step 6: Create Gears

Using some stone art clay attach Cogs & Skewers/Toothpicks together to create a gear system to your liking.
Cogs can be separated with circles of stone art or held together with mock metal rivets – to illustrate I used bronze stone art clay.
I used extra-large cogs from Bag End Studio’s Box of Cogs as my centers and firmly secured my center cog into the back of the firefly using stone art clay. I used the largest chipboard cog piece at the back and attached it to the body base using stone art clay.
I left the masking tape holding the wings in place temporarily until everything dried.

Step 7: Stone Art the Bottle

Roll out Stone Art Clay. I used a texture roller and scissors to cut pieces.
Paint a little bit of Terracotta PTX on the back of the clay pieces before attaching to the bottle.
Attach the middle legs using stone art clay.

Step 8: Make Beetle Legs

Using Terracotta stone art clay, join MDF pieces to make legs. Leave to dry at least overnight and then attach to Firefly body using stone art clay. This is fiddly and time consuming but worth the results.

Step 9: Optional Gauges & Bulbs

Lightly seal the gauges and lightbulbs with Yellow Ochre PTX.
Let dry
Using Easy Coat Glossy embellish with Rich Gold Colourtrix.
Position and attach pieces to your own stylistic liking using stone art clay.
Do not forget to paint a bit of Powertex on the attachment surfaces to increase adhesion.
Attach the eyes at the same time in the same way.
I attached the chipboard pipes in the Firefly kit to the back of the firefly into the stone art clay and then used tiny pieces of stone art to secure. See photo in step 12.

Step 10: Optional Little People

Using small pieces of stone art clay embed little workers into your artwork.
Note: I attached the pipes in the Firefly kits to the back of the firefly over the bottle and used these in attaching the bulbs.

Step 11: Optional Decoupage Wings

Cut your napkin into four pieces.
Using easy coat glossy varnish and a paint brush, apply a thin layer onto the top of the wings and then decoupage paper onto the wings. Varnish the underside of your wing folding the napkins underneath. Carefully, seal napkins with another layer of varnish as napkins are more fragile than paper.
I used Leonardo DaVinci napkins from Tamara’s paper napkins. https://www.etsy.com/market/tamaras_paper_napkin
Finish off piece with a light dry brush of Colourtrix Golds (Rich, Bronze and Clear).

Step 12: Light Her Up Baby

Carefully, insert fairy lights filling the bottle bulb (firefly bottom) and turn on the attached battery pack and hide pack in the stone art covered front end of your fly. The K-Mart Lights come with a switch so I can turn it off and on without having to remove pack from the bottle until I need new batteries.

Congratulations you have finished
See you in June with some Anthropomorphic Nonsense.
Natalie Parish from Bag End Studio

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I'm Late I'm Late -Down the Rabbit Hole

4/11/2020

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It’s no secret how much I love Alice in Wonderland Themes. So, I was very excited to receive this month’s Rabbit Design Kit so I could build upon by Wonderland Artwork Collection. (see blog ‘We are All Mad Here - The Red Queen & Alice Art Dolls). Therefore, I wanted to find some design elements that would work in with this collection. Secondly, I wanted to tie in the idea of falling down the rabbit hole (something I symbolically do daily). This led to rearranging the MDF pieces to simulate the White Rabbit falling.

However, I couldn’t think of what to do with all the extra pieces – especially the scroll. Finally, I hit upon the idea that when I am organized and ticking off errands, I am less likely to procrastinate. I make lists and scroll through them all the time and still end up doing tasks in a furious hurry, much like when we first meet Lewis Carrol’s White Rabbit I realized. That led to the idea of attaching and decorating an old pinboard to my artwork to pin up my to do lists or bills in a vain attempt to not always be late. Alas, due to time constraints I did not include the pinboard in these instructions but intend to do so at a later date (I have another rabbit hole to visit first).

Materials:

Rabbit MDF Cut Outs, Designer Chipboard Mats,
Designer Stencil (I kept the stencils for another project)
Powertex Universal Medium. Colours of your choice. I used black
Stone Art
Easy Coat Varnish - Glossy
Powercolours of your choice to embellish your work. I used titanium white, red, orange, and yellow
Colourtrix colours of your choice to highlight powercolours. I used white silver, pearl red, bronze gold and clear gold
Sand and Balls
Natural Mesh (from Bag End Studio Store) or material of your choice.
Powercotton (alternative crochet cotton, string or mop string). Sorry powercotton been discontinued.
Doll Eyes - from Bag End Studio Store
Triangle Hooks for hanging.

From your useful box:

Ribbing – like an old polo shirt collar
A small piece of Styrofoam
Masking Tape and waste photocopying paper.
Chain
Wire
Skewers

Equipment:

Plastic covered workspace
Mixing Bowls
Paint brushes (one for Powertex and one or two for pigment colours)
Lids for Palette (or alfoil).
Palette Knife, skewers, ﬂat spatula,
Clay modelling tool
Washing up Container for cleaning
Gloves, Chux Cloth, Paper towel
Gladwrap (to wrap Stone Art clay and to cover opened Powertex bottles)
Air-tight container to store clay.

Step 1: Design Layout

Surf the internet or Pinterest for inspiration.
Push or knife out your pieces and play with positioning them.
Cut out your material to fashion clothes. I used natural mesh to simulate a tweed coat.
Play with bits from your useful box – I used ribbing for the collar (later I also added more ribbing under the natural mesh coat). I also found some chain for the fob watch.
Roll up some wastepaper into a ball shape and cover with masking tape to make a bunny tail.
Collect the necessary Powertex products and equipment and set up your plastic covered workspace.

Step 2: Make Stone Art

In a bowl with a medium amount of Black Powertex Universal Medium (approx. 1/2 cup), add Stone Art (approx. 1/2 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.

Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to ‘flour’ the ball. Knead well until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking. (Apologies, I used most of my stone art clay before the photograph).
Keep the clay ball wrapped in glad wrap and in a sealed airtight container to prevent hardening until use.

Step 3: Seal MDF Boards

Using a paint brush, seal both the back and fronts of all the MDF Boards and the bunny tail.
Also seal the chipboard pieces and whilst they are damp you can manipulate them carefully to create movement.
Add a small piece of stone art under the clock face to lift it off its base.

Step 4. Join MDF Pieces Together

Paint the fronts and backs of attachment points with Powertex.
Using some pre-made stone art clay cover attachment points on the back leave to dry (or hair dry to speed up process)
Repeat on the front.
It is possible to sprinkle stone art powder and create clay on the spot and then using a modelling tool push the clay along the edges of the pieces to attach them.

Step 5. Make the Bunny Tail

Paint half of the masking taped paper ball with Powertex
Dip into a bowl of Medium Balls, let dry a little.
Repaint with Powertex
Repeat to build up texture with the balls.
When dry paint the other half.

Step 6. Attach Jacket and Bunny Tail.

Using a paint brush, cover the natural mesh completely
Using gloved hands fashion the mesh around your rabbit MDF.
Secure it by wrapping the mesh underneath or use stone art clay to assist attachment if necessary.
Place glad wrap under the natural mesh to keep it lifted.
Use the stone art to attach the Bunny Tail.
Once dry remove glad wrap.
Cut 6 small pieces of wire to create whiskers.

Step 7. Sculpt Rabbit Face

Use a ball of stone art and create a mound over the surface of your MDF Rabbit Head.
Using modelling tools sculpt a rabbit face. I used photos from the internet and Pinterest as a guide.
Push doll’s eyes into the eye sockets and carefully push the clay around them to hold into place.
Create long sausages of clay to outline the Rabbit ears and attach using your modelling tools.

Step 8. Attach Collar and Rabbit Face

Half dip the ribbing material into your bowl of Powertex, massage thoroughly, and hand paint it until it is completely covered. It should look matt not shiny and wet.
To save clay I used a little piece of Powertex painted Styrofoam and fashioned the collar around it
Position the collar and Styrofoam into place with the clay.
Add a lump of the clay as a neck for your rabbit’s head.
Push head into place and using a tool carefully spread out clay underneath attachment points to secure.
Leave to dry.
I also used a second piece of ribbing to tidy up the look of the MDF under the jacket – like the back of a waist coat.

Step 9. Cover the Umbrella

Paint to skewers and position on top of the umbrella as shown.
Cover with scrap material to make your umbrella more 3D.

Step 10. Make the Rabbit Furry

Paint sections of Powercotton into a gloved hand (to avoid bunching and knotting)
Paint the MDF with Powertex and lay the painted polycotton on top to cover the base of the rabbit.
Using two skewers tease the polycotton apart starting with where you began as it will have dried a little and become tacky and easier to work with.
Repeat on the arms at the front.

Step 11. Embellish with Powercolour & Colourtrix

Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Glossy Varnish into a lid or alfoil palette.
Palette out the matt Powercolours & metallic Colourtrix pigments of your choice.
With a very dry brush take up a small amount of the Glossy Easy Coat Varnish onto the brush tips and criss-cross your brush onto the palette to load the varnish into your brush.
Pick up a small amount of the pigment and criss-cross your brush with it into the palette to create a paint. Repeat process using colours as desired.
I used White Titanium on the rabbit face, tail and fur and highlighted with White Silver.
Red and orange blended on the tweed jacket.
Yellow on the waistcoat under the jacket, highlighted in Rich Gold.
I used Rich Gold on the collar, with a touch of red.
A mixture of rich and bronze gold and white on the watch.
A mixture of rich and bronze gold and red on the bow tie.
Dark Silver on the umbrella.

Step 12. Attach Chain, Fob Watch, Umbrella & Hanging Hooks.

Using stone art clay attach the chain, Fob Watch and Umbrella into place.
Attach your D-ring hook on the back of your artwork as per picture

Congratulations You Have Finished.
I hope you had fun falling down this Rabbit Hole with me I look forward to firing up a new idea and lighting the way in May (a little hint there).
Meanwhile follow the link below to get your White Rabbit Kit

SHOP NOW WHITE RABBIT KIT

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Autumn Mandala Blogpost and Artwork by Erika Venter Designs.

3/23/2020

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The word mandala is from the classical Indian language of Sanskrit, meaning circle or centre. With circular patterns representing life and growth, they're found almost everywhere: in nature, contemporary design, science, and psychological and spiritual study.
A mandala is an ancient symbol of wholeness, integration and transformation. Today, this art form endures as a tool for expressing the essence of our creativity."
This is my Autumn Mandala creation...
I hope you will have as much fun as I did! Erika Venter - Australian Design Team
www.erikaventer.weebly.com

MATERIALS:

Autumn Mandala kit
Powertex Black, Red, Green, Yellow
Colourtrix Rich Gold
Easycoat Glossy
Small dream catcher
String & scissors
Beads
Rope & small piece of wire
Sponge & 4 plastic plates
Plastic bowl

STEP 1: Preparation
Drill 4 holes on the bottom of your Mandala. Shake and stir Powertex Black very well before use. Pour Powertex onto a plate and use the sponge to paint both sides of MDF board as well as the little dream catcher. Do one side first and leave to dry, then do other side.

STEP 2: Making the Tree
Cut six pieces of rope about 50cm long to make a tree. Use a piece of wire to tie around the bottom of all the pieces of rope about 5cm from the bottom and then twist the rope to create a tree trunk. Spread the branches over the MDF board to get an idea of how you want the tree to look. Once you are happy follow the next steps...

STEP 3: Attach the Tree to your Mandala
Undo the rope but keep the piece of wire tied onto the rope to keep your spacing. Pour Powertex Black into a bowl and dip the string into the Powertex and then massage it through the fibres. Once coated twist the rope and drape it onto the MDF Board. Use the short pieces for the roots, spreading them evenly on the bottom, making sure you don’t cover the holes for the string. Cut the excess branches off and leave to dry. Use Powertex Black and stick the small dream catcher on the MDF board between the branches. Leave everything to dry completely.

STEP 4: Embellish the Tree
Use Colourtrix Rich Gold and Easycoat glossy to embellish the whole tree and the inside of the dream catcher.

STEP 5: Painting Autumn Colours
While you’re waiting for step 3 to dry. Pour Powertex Green, Red and Yellow onto the plastic plates and cover them with plastic to prevent drying out. Start with the green and dab the sponge over all the MDF leaves - you still want to see some black coming through. Do both sides (working under a fan will speed up the drying process). Rinse the sponge after every colour that you use. Use now Powertex Red and do this process all over. Leave to dry. Finally, Powertex Yellow will bring that Autumn feeling to the leaves as the colours blend into each other.

STEP 6: Adding your Leaves
I used Powertex Green and Yellow to paint the beads and then put them aside to dry. Cut the sting into different lengths so that they hang uneven. Tie the leaves onto the string by spacing the beads between them. Use the left over Powertex and paint the back of the MDF Mandala board the same as the leaves (it will dry pretty quickly).

STEP 7: Finishing Touches
Use the left-over leaves and nuts to finish decorating your Mandala. Use some string and beads to create a hanging hook that matches the leaves hanging on the bottom. Add some more colour, for example I used Powertex Red and coloured the rim of the small dream catcher. Bring it all together by tying the string onto the bottom of the MDF Board and VOILA IT’S DONE.

I had so much fun designing this Autumn Mandala
and I am really happy with the end result
I HOPE THAT THIS BEAUTIFUL AUTUMN MANDALA INSPIRES YOU AS WELL!
WHY WAIT??? ORDER YOUR KIT AND START CREATING TODAY!
Enjoy the ride…
Erika

Dream Catcher Kit

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Nian Chinese Dragon - February Theme

2/22/2020

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Shop Now for Dragon Kits

By Natalie Parish
Australian Powertex Design Team

Thank goodness there is a second new year to celebrate in the world as I find I am always a little slow off the start in January. At our craft shows in 2019, a reoccurring request was for a Dragon Project. Dragons, a symbol of raw, untameable, ancient, energy also symbolises wisdom, strength, power and knowledge. An interesting symbol to our country’s troubled start to 2020.
According to Chinese legend, in the middle of winter, due to a scarcity of food, Nian the Dragon would come out of his mountain hiding and feed on the people and animals in the villages. Scared, the villagers hid indoors at night, leaving food on their doorsteps lit by red lanterns in the hope the dragon would be satisfied, and lives would be spared. However, a wise man discovered that Nian was afraid of the colour red and loud noises. With this knowledge, the Chinese villagers could take back the night by setting off firecrackers, banging on drum, parading down their streets in bright red colours and chasing off Nian with their own dragon dancers.
In my dragon I wanted to emulate the movement of the Dragon dancers through an exaggerated wave in front piece by using my Stone Art Pillar techniques. I have also used oriental colours of red (vitality), gold (wealth) and black (to balance oppositional forces with a grounded) to herald in the new year and energize the commitment to those New Year Resolutions.

Materials:

Chinese Dragon MDF Cut Outs & Designer Chipboard Mat (although I did not end up using the chipboard Mat)
Powertex Universal Medium. Colours of choice. I used black & red but did not end up using the yellow ochre)
3D Flex & Stone Art
Balls – I did not use the sand.
Bister – natural & red
Easy Varnish
Powercolours colours of choice. I used rouge & titanium white
Colourtrix colours of your choice. I used rich gold
Dragon Eyes (available from www.bagendstudio.net)
Triangle Hooks for hanging.

Available on Bag End Studio - Online Shop

Equipment:

Mixing Bowls
Paint Brushes (two for Powertex and two for pigment colours)
Lids for Palette (or alfoil)
Palette Knife & flat spatula for mixing & apply 3D Flex.
Skewers for lifting polycotton while drying
Modelling tools or textures plates (I ended up spreading my 3D Flex more often than stamping–but I would like to do another using more stamping)
Gloves, Chux Cloth, Paper towel
Gladwrap (to wrap 3D Clay &Stone Art & to cover opened Powertex bottles)
Air-tight container to store clay.
Watching up containers for cleaning.

Step One - Design Layout

Collect the necessary Powertex products & equipment

Set up plastic workspace area (I’ve used a paper surface only for a photographic background).
I did wing this project a bit & the steps are in retrospect the best order. I do wish I had taken more photos. It’s easy to get carried away when trying to make something work.

Step Two – Seal the Back of the Boards

Seal the back of all the MDF Boards with Black Powertex Universal Medium.
tart with the larger two bottom layers.
seal the top side of the two bottom layers once the backs are dry.

Step Three – Make Stone Art

Pour Black Powertex Universal Medium (approx.1/2 cup) into a bowl & add Stone Art (approx.1/2 cup) & mix with a flat spatula.

Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable ball of dough that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves.
Remove the sticky ball & add a little more Stone Art to ‘flour’ the ball. Knead the clay ball well, ‘flouring’ with a scatter of Stone Art if it’s a little sticky. It is ready when pushed into a textured surface & removed again without sticking but leaving an impression.
Keep the clay ball wrapped in glad wrap & in a sealed airtight container to prevent hardening until use.

Step Four – Join Bottom Layer with Stone Art & Tape

Take a portion of your clay & roll out a sausage shapes that will fit along the gap between the two bottom layers of the MDF boards.

Apply a little Black Powertex to the sausage and squeeze the boards together.
Spread the squeezed sausage either side of the board to help attachment.
Use a hairdryer to speed up drying.
Carefully flip over & even out the front side. Don’t worry about the look on the front side it will be covered up later.
Too excited to wait for the stone art to dry, I started cracking on with creating texture. However, it was too flexible to work with, so I added masking tape over the stone art in the gap area.
In hindsight, I would probably tape the boards together from the start & place some tape horizontally for bracing.
Cover the masking tape with Black Powertex & sprinkle stone art powder over the top to make a paste. Pat down firmly
Re-apply a little more Powertex to return the surface to black.
NB. 3D Flex cannot be used to stick the boards together as it is a cracking clay.

Step Five – Seal Top Layer & Face Front

Seal the front of the two top layers of MDF & all the Face Pieces

Step Six – Make 3D Flex Paste & Clay

In a bowl with a medium amount of black Powertex Universal Medium (approx. 1/2 cup), add 3D (approx. 1/2 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.
Add small amounts of 3D Flex until you get a buttery consistency as we are using 3D Flex as a texture paste.
Use a container with a lid to prevent drying.

Step Seven - Texturize the Fronts with 3 D Flex & Balls

Using your spatula, spread the 3D Flex over the front surfaces.
Experiment dragging the spatula in different directions to increase texture.
Add a little more 3D Flex to your mixture to make a stamp-able clay in the same way you made Stone Art Clay earlier. I used clay on the horns & nose pieces & stamped with a modelling tool.
Distribute balls as desired into the top layers only (as they won’t be appreciated on the bottom layer once the top layer is covering it.
Spray with bister to assist with cracking. I used red bister on the red background surfaces (as I wanted the red to show through) & natural bister on the black surfaces.
Remember, you don’t need to over-do it as it will start to dry out & it is not until you embellish with colour that you will get a true appreciation of the textures created. I have included a photo of back layer with 3d Flex embellished with red powercolour & the front layer before embellishment as an example.

Step Eight- Add Powercotton to Face

Using a gloved hand, lay out sections of Powercotton & finger paint with Black Powertex Universal Medium. I tend to keep it flat, so it doesn’t tangle into a tiny ball. I do not dip.
Place your polycotton onto the MDF boards. I did the cheeks, chin, eyebrows & mouth hairs.
I usually leave for a minute or two & then start teasing it out with skewers over the surface & adding more as required. It is a little time-consuming, but the texture effects are worth it.
Use the flat end of your skewer to attach the lower surface of your Powercotton for adhesion. I usually do several pieces then come back to my first piece to tease out the top layers with the pointy ends of the skewers when it has adhered a little.
Again, it is difficult to appreciate the effects until you have embellished with pigments.
Experiment dragging the spatula in different directions to increase texture.

Step Nine – Embellish & Assemble The Face

Pour a small amount of Easy Varnish into a lid or alfoil palette.
Palette out the matt Powercolours & metallic Colourtrix pigments of your choice. I used Red Powercolour and highlighted with Rich Gold Colourtrix.
With a very dry brush take up a small amount of Easy Varnish onto the brush tips and criss-cross your brush onto the palette to load the varnish into your brush.
Pick up a small amount of the pigment and criss-cross your brush with it into the palette to create a paint. Repeat process using colours as desired.

Take portions of your clay & create small sausage shapes that will fit along the base & underside of each of the front facial sections.
Paint a small amount of Black Powertex Universal Medium to the surface before attaching.
Use a spatula or modelling tool to flatten the edges of your sausages & firmly attach the clay to your MDF
Paint a small amount of Black Powertex Universal Medium to the top of the clay before positioning piece into place & spend time working & spreading the clay out to attach to the MDF. (You can touch up with pigments at the end.
Similarly, use a small clay ball with a very small amount of Powertex Universal Medium to attach eyes by squeezing down firmly into place.

Step Ten – Assemble Body

Using a larger portion roll out a long thick sausage shape & divide into at least 3 pillars.
Shape the pillars slightly to broaden the tops and bases to increase adhesion surface area.
Placement will depend on personal preference & may require more pillars or differing sized pillars to get your artwork balancing right. I used three pillars with the middle being the shortest to create movement in my piece.
Take your time testing positions.
Once happy it will sit right. Place a little Powertex on both sides of all clay sausages/pillars to assist with adhesion.
Gently press shapes together focusing on clay points of attachment.
Repeat this process for the Face & Claw piece.
Leave to dry & stabilize

Step Eleven - Hanging Hooks & Touch Ups

Take a very small portion of your pre-made clay and create a square to lay the base of the triangle hook into
Using a little bit of Powertex, on the underside of the clay as a glue, place the clay square in the centre of the back of the base MDF.
Press triangle hook down into the clay square to secure and cover the hook’s base with clay making sure that the hook can still swing free.
Splay sides of the clay square to improve attachment to MDF.
Depending on the end position, you may need a second hook.
Leave at least 3 weeks for the clay to cure before hanging.
Touch up your piece, spills or lack of colour, or hiding clay by embellishing with pigments.

Congratulations you’re finished.

Where will you hang your dragon to bring you prosperity in 2020

A dragon’s energy is perfect for an office space but place it behind your desk to support you and not in front of you in opposition. If this position is lucky enough to be an eastern wall, even better as both dragons and the element of wood are represented. If your piece will live outside garden/courtyard then remember that Dragons love water, so maybe near a water feature. Or guardian on your front door.

See you next month for some March Magic.
Natalie Parish

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White Country Christmas-Napkin Rings

12/8/2019

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Christmas Inspirations-December 2019
Country Napkin Rings
Natalie Parish from the Australian Design Team.

Christmas can be a time for over consumption rather than contemplation. However, being crafty can give you that time and space to look at Christmas creatively. It is a tradition in my family to exchange gifts that are handmade, second-hand and this year we added bush gifts from drought and fire effected areas. So, I am going for a Country Christmas theme
Dinner is at my house this year, so to tie in my theme I decided to rehash an old napkin ring idea to make table decorations. Determined not to go to the shops, I rummaged through my useful box and craft stash to use up bits I already had. That’s what I love about the Powertex universal medium and stone art – its ability to help you create assemblage art out of found objects, off-cuts, or bits from the backyard. that at first glance to anyone else may simply look like rubbish.
Keep in mind, except for the PTX universal medium, everything is optional depending on the style you wish to create and what you have at home. I love to use the stone art as it speeds up the attachment process.

Materials

White PTX Powertex Universal Medium (colour is optional).
Stone Art
Bister – pre-mixed sepia
Paper Decoration Natural - optional
Powercotton - optional
Sand and Balls - optional
Easy coat glossy
Titanium White
Rich Gold

www.bagendstudio.net
www.powertexaustralia.com

Equipment

Plastic work surface
Bowls and Gloves
Gladwrap
Paintbrushes
Spray bottle – available from
www.bagendstudio.net
www.powertexaustralia.com

From Your Useful Box

Box Cardboard – top layer removed to expose corrugations
String
Bush Nuts, seeds,pods, pot puriri
Flowers – dried, paper, plaster, clay, artificial.
Found Objects if desired
Skewers
Toilet Rolls or Food Wrap Rolls – I prefer thinner rolls as they are easier to remove before drying.

A range of bush seeds, pods and dried flowers are available at www.bagendstudio.net

Step One – Set up to create the Base

Cover your rolls in glad wrap
Cut Cardboard into a square that almost fits around your roll. I prefer for the cardboard to not meet up in the middle and instead leave a gap to be filled with my useful box items.
Cut your string into 20cm lengths (approx.). This will keep the cardboard in place whilst drying and provide extra texture.
Layout your seeds, nuts, skewers, flowers into a rough design that will overlap the gap in the cardboard.

Step Two - Make Stone Art

Pour into a bowl with a small amount of White Powertex Universal Medium (1/4 cup) and Stone Art (1/4 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.
Keeping adding small amounts of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves.
Remove the sticky ball, add a little more stone art to the bowl to ‘flour’ the ball
Knead and condition until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and removed again without sticking.
Store in a zip lock plastic bag.
For longer storage (a few months), cover with a wet chux cloth, put it in a zip lock plastic bag and then pop it in an airtight container. It may need ‘flouring’ with Stone Art if it is too sticky or more PTX Universal Medium if too dry, when you go to use it.

Step Three - Assembling the Roll

Pre-dip string by placing into your bowl of PTX universal medium and massaging it through. Squeeze out excess by running string through thumb and forefinger. Put to one side or in hot/dry weather wrap in gladwrap.
With a paint brush paint both sides of the cardboard.
Wrap the cardboard around your glad-wrapped roll.
Wrap the pre-dipped string around the cardboard to hold it into place.

Step Four - Assembling Found Objects

Paint the found or natural objects in PTX universal medium.
Place each object into position in the gap area.
Optional - Paper Decoration provides a great base across the gap area and can be teased apart to create fabulous textures.
If you have stone art, you can attach larger objects or embed junk objects into it or use as a textural design piece.
Optional - Powercotton (or strings) and Sand and Balls added at the end is a great way to integrate spaces in your design as well providing extra interest.

Step Five - Bister

Making sure that your PTX is still a little bit wet, spray your entire piece with Bister using a spray bottle. (You can always give a second light coating of PTX if it has dried out)
Then to create a crackle effect, dry your piece with a hairdryer. (Be careful it’s hot. I hid my fingers inside the roll).
Using the hairdryer will also dry and set firm your napkin holder. However, we do not want to set it rock hard as it will be harder to remove the roll and balance the piece.
Do not worry if your work looks a bit too sepia as we will highlight it in white later.

Step Six - Setting

Carefully remove roll. Thin rolls can be crushed and pulled out
Touch up inside of roll with a little bit of PTX.
To stop your napkin ring from being top heavy, carefully, press down slightly on the top, to flatten the base until it stops rolling over and it is in a balanced position sitting upright.
Set aside to dry overnight. Alternatively, to speed up the drying process, leave in the sun or use a hairdryer.

Step Seven - Pigment Embellishing

Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Varnish into a lid/palette/alfoil.
Palette out the Powertex pigments of your choice. I used Titanium White (powercolour-matt) and Clear Gold (Colourtrix - metallic)
With a very dry brush take up a small amount of Easy Coat Varnish into the brush tips and criss-cross your brush onto your palette to load the varnish into your brush.
Pick up a small amount of powercolour pigment and criss-cross your bush with it into the palette to create a paint consistency (If it looks too watery, this is the result of too much varnish so pick up a little more pigment).
Apply the colour as desired remembering it is always easier to be build colour than remove it.
Repeat process with metallic pigments and use them as highlights to your work.
If you do not have the PTX Pigments, you can use the white PTX to highlight textures. However, the bonus to using the dry brush technique is that you are varnishing at the same time, waterproofing the bister and giving some longevity to your napkin rings.

Just Add Your Napkins Congratulations Stay Tuned for more Country Christmas www.bagendstudio.net

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Corset Wedding Planner by Natalie Parish from Bag End Studio

11/11/2019

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Something Blue
Wedding Planner Holder
Naughty November 2019
By Natalie Parish
Australian Powertex Design Team
www.bagendstudio.net

Whilst the November Theme was Naughty, I surprisingly ended up being Nice. Originally, I wanted to make the corset into an envelope holder to store important upcoming bills because I often put money in my brassier. It’s a safe place right. However, as I was running behind schedule and Erika had finished her gorgeously Naughty Moulin Corset, I felt another colour was needed. I jumped to white and the idea of a wedding corset quickly followed. In the end, my artwork ideas came together with a bit of inspiration from a very familiar wedding adage from the 1890s:
Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue.
So in keeping with my adage, I used some old lace pants, on a new MDF design board and as my blog was terribly late I wrote it on borrowed time and adding the blue brought the whole piece together.
Materials:

Corset MDF Cut Outs
Powertex Universal Medium. Colour of your choice. I used bronze
Stone Art
Easy Coat Varnish - Glossy
Powercolours colours of your choice. I used titantium white and light blue
Colourtrix colours of your choice. I used white silver, blue lustre and red pearl.
Note: I did not use the DA Designer Mat or the stencil in the kit.
Triangle Hook for hanging.

From your useful box:

I used an old pair of lace shorts for the background MDF.
Old Bits of lace – I focused on cutting the flowers out.
Paper & Fabric Flowers
Beads, stick on pearls, little pegs

Equipment:

Mixing Bowl
Paint Brushes (one for Powertex and one for pigment colours)
Lids for Palette (or alfoil)
Palette Knife, skewers, ﬂat spatula, modelling tool
Washing up Container or cleaning
Gloves, Chux Cloth, Paper towel
Gladwrap (to wrap Stone Art and to cover opened Powertex bottles) & Air-tight container to store clay.

Step One - Design Layout

Collect the necessary Powertex products, equipment and bits from your useful box.

Set up plastic workspace area.
Cut out lace pieces and make ready to Powertex.
I decided on a symmetrical theme for the front bodice section. I laid out my design on one of the front sections so that I could copy it onto the blank piece once I started powertexing.

Step Two – Seal boards and Attach Lace Pieces

Seal the backs of all the MDF corset pieces
Seal the MDF corset pieces, by applying Powertex with a paint brush.
Seal the small pegs with Powertex and peg them to a piece of plastic to avoid them sticking together.
A hairdryer can be used to speed up drying at any stage.
I used both a dip and paint brush method for applying the lace to the MDF boards.
For the larger pieces of lace, using gloved hands, dip one end of the fabric into the bowl and massage the Powertex in to acquire full coverage without being too wet and shiny. Then lay it out flat onto the MDF using a paint brush.
For the flowers, paint the pieces in your gloved hand before applying to the MDF Corset front and touch up once in position.

Step Three – Embellish

Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Glossy Varnish into a lid or alfoil palette.
Palette out the matt Powercolours & metallic Colourtrix pigments of your choice.
With a very dry brush take up a small amount of the Glossy Easy Coat Varnish onto the brush tips and criss-cross your brush onto the palette to load the varnish into your brush.
Pick up a small amount of the pigment and criss-cross your brush with it into the palette to create a paint. Repeat process using colours as desired.
Note: - I used White Titantium and Light Blue Powercolours first for a strong base colour and then White Silver and Blue Lustre Colourtrix over the top to add sparkle. Love to Layer.

Step Four – Make Stone Art

In a bowl with a medium amount of grey Powertex Universal Medium (approx. 1/4 cup), add Stone Art (approx. 1/4 cup) and mix with a flat spatula.

Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to ‘flour’ the ball. Knead well until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking.
Keep the clay ball wrapped in glad wrap to prevent hardening until use.
Left over clay can wrapped in wet chux, glad-wrapped and stored in an airtight container.

Step Five - Stone Art Pillars and Hanging Hooks

Take a very small portion of your pre-made clay and create a square to lay the base of the triangle hook into.
Using a little bit of Powertex, on the underside of the clay as a glue, place the clay square in the centre of the back of the base MDF.
Press triangle hook down into the clay square to secure and cover the hook’s base with clay making sure that the hook can still swing free.
Splay sides of the clay square to improve attachement to MDF.
Take a portion of your clay and roll out two long but thin sausage shapes that will fit along the base and underside of each of the front bodice sections.
Using a larger portion roll out a long thick (4 times bigger) sausage shape. Divide into two equal pillars. Divide those portions into two but not in half – 2/3 pillar and a 1/3 pillar.
Shape the pillars slightly to broaden the tops and bases to increase adhesion surface area.
Place the longest pillars (2/3 size) onto the Back Bodice MDF closer to the top.
Place the shortest pillars (1/3 size) onto the Back Bodice almost half- way down.
Test position.
Once happy it will sit right. Place a little Powertex on both sides of all clay sausages/pillars to assist with adhesion.
Gently press shapes together focusing on clay points of attachment.
Make four more sausages to attach the little pegs to the dangle attachments. Apply a small amount of Powertex to improve adhesion and mould sides to keep a clean finish.
Leave overnight to dry.

Step Six – Lace Up and Hang Up.

Touch up pillars and clay sections with colour pigments to finish off your artwork.
Attach the dangles with wire or chain jump rings.
Lace up the corset front.
Note: It takes 3 weeks for your Powertex products to fully harden and cure. So I always wait that time before hanging.

Congratulations you’re finished.
I hope you had as much fun as I did.
See you next month for Christmas.
Natalie Parish from Bag End Studio.

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